Ipoh->Penang

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It’s too late at night for me to post photos from yesterday…

Today I took a reasonably nice bus from Ipoh to Butterworth and rode the ferry to Penang.  (I think if I’d stayed on the bus it would’ve driven me to Penang, but the Penang bus station is in the middle of nowhere.)  I’m staying half way between Georgetown and Batu Ferrenghi, on a nice little stretch of beach.

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Ipho train station.  I didn’t depart from here today, but stopped in to buy tomorrow’s ticket to Thailand.  There is a shockingly seedy hotel in the top of this beautiful building.

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Pointy Ipoh landscape.  The limestone around Ipoh is supposed to make for ideal pomelo growing conditions, but I failed at my several attempts to visit a pomelo farm or even buy and eat a pomelo.

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Me on the rickety ferry to Penang.  The Ferry costs MYR1.20 to ride, and the entrance is coin-operated.  No one carries change, though, so right before the automated ferry turnstyle there’s a human-operated booth where everyone stops to get change.  And there’s also a full-time attendant at the turnstyle — his job is to show me where to put the coins.

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Sam Poh Tong

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Looks nice, right?  Well, it isn’t.  The idea of putting a temple in a steep valley that you can only access via a cave is a nice one, and the fact that the religion of the temple is so inclusive and incoherent is nice too.  But… OK, there’s this scene in the 1959 movie Journey to the Center of the Earth where the intrepid travelers are walking through a cave and then they meet a bunch of vicious prehistoric turtles, right?  I always thought that scene was puzzling since the turtles were a) turtles and inherently not scary, and b) hissed like geese at the explorers.

Well, it turns out that when that really happens to you it’s pretty damn scary.  I was very glad that the turtles were behind a fence, and that I had bought a bag of croutons to distract them with.

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I usually like turtles, but I did not like these turtles.  The pond also stank of death, I guess because no one ever cleans it and the turtles don’t care.  The turtles are here because they’re meant to be an auspicious omen.  Turtles live forever, and so visiting them represents and/or confers a long life on the viewer.  To me, though, the combined effect was more like “Your life will wink out in an instant while these hideous beasts endure, indifferent to your fate.”

On the way out I checked out the fish pond.  Instead of containing Koi, though, it had big scary arowana and a couple of these guys, who also (to me) immediately represented death since they’re eyeless and anatomically upside-down such that they look and act like reanimated corpses.

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Also, among the interior photos I took there were these gems.

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Dr. Teeth and the Electric Muezzin

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I’m watching a nature show in my hotel room right now (it’s 50% “I survived being eaten by a hippo!” and 50% about how hippos are closely related to whales, even down to the singing).  A few minutes ago the show was abruptly interrupted by a Ken Burns-style pan across a photo of a minaret while a disembodied voice called to prayer.

I guess once you’ve got TV towers you don’t need actual minarets.

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KL->Ipoh

I loaded a dozen episodes of “Jordan, Jesse, Go!” onto my music player and had a very pleasant morning riding the train through Perak listening to nonsense and enjoying the view.  I took about a hundred photos out the train window, all of which are terrible.

Key landscape features include:

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Home-made structures built from corrugated metal.  Outside of Germany there’s nowhere in the world where a train ride won’t expose a few of these.  Malaysia, though, is chock-full.  I saw factories, chicken coops, turkey barns, homes, and restaurants, all with great-looking patchwork roofs.

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Delicious weeds. Medians and wastelands are full of banana stands and little patches of sugarcane.  Since these things seldom grow from seed I can’t imagine that they’re volunteers… perhaps there’s some sort of Jimmy Rogers-type conspiracy to make sure that there are always free snacks by the roadside.

Not pictured due to photographic limitations:  Dinner-plate sized lotus flowers growing in swampy places, and Lots of Vintage Vespa Scooters rolling around way out in the country.

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Tanjong Pagar->KL Sentral

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I’m killing a bit of time in the Kuala Lumpur train station, waiting for the ticket office to open so I can pay for my seat to Ipoh.  There’s a TV in the corner running political coverage, and the Malaysian assembly is an endless cavalcade of exciting headgear.  No doubt they indicate rank or ethnicity or religion or something, but to my untrained eye it just looks like a silly-hat parade.  A few folks have skull caps, the president has a pointy batik pope-style crown, a few guys have these angular headbands that (on the black and white TV) look straight off of a Buck Rogers episode.

I just took an overnight sleeper from Singapore.  The ride was very rattly — clearly they were adding cars to the train in each little whistle-stop in Melaka because I kept waking up to these tremendous bump-and-clangs.  I’m looking forward to the novelty of sleeping in a full-sized, stationary bed this evening.

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I’m always amused at the process of leaving Singapore via rail.  For some reason when Singapore broke away from Malaysia in the 1960’s, the property owned by KTM (the rail company) remained part of Malaysia.  So there’s a funny embassy-like finger of Malaysian sovereignty that extends across the causeway and down almost to the far end of the Singapore island, ending in the Tanjong Pagar station.  This spit is mostly razor-wired and generally cut off from Singapore proper, neglected by both governments such that it’s ill maintained and prone to acquiring squatter camps.

There have been frequent disputes and negotiations between the two governments about how to untangle this problem.  One consequence of this turf war is that passengers go through Malaysian immigration before boarding the train (which, after all, runs on rails that are entirely built on Malaysian soil) but don’t pass through Singaporean emigration until just before crossing the causeway.  So you enter this strange run-down train station and ride along this ratty strip of land for half an hour (during which time passengers are, officially, within both countries at once), then climb off the train and into a shiny efficient Singapore-style customs facility, a final reminder of the convenience that we’ve forsaken.

The second consequence of bitterness about the land dispute is that KTM regards Singapore dollars (US$.71) and Malaysian ringgit (US$.29)  as equivalent.  So, because I booked a ticket in Singapore, I had to pay SGD40 (US$28) for the one-way ticket, whereas if I’d bought a return ticket in Kuala Lumpur it would’ve only cost MYR80 (US$23) for the round trip.  In fact, I could’ve simply called the booking office in KL, bought a round-trip ticket, and failed to travel the south-bound portion of the journey thus saving $5 and ensuring that an empty berth travel south.  Everyone knows about this — in fact, I’ve even had a KTM agent in Singapore direct me to a pay-phone in order to call the KL office and save myself a few bucks.  Yet, the system remains.

Third consequence of the territorial dispute is that the Tanjong Pagar train station (which can be entered without passing through immigration) has gained a reputation as a convenient place for Singaporeans to eat authentic Malaysian food.  When I arrived last night there were a few dozen passengers milling about, and about a hundred non-traveling Singaporeans sitting around tables on the (at the moment, unused) arrivals platform eating satay.

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I’m a bit panicked about the prospect of leaving the roti prata zone, so I had a little bit of satay and a whole lot of prata.  So far on this trip, train station prata is the best prata — it came with dahl in addition to the normal curry.

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Product endorsement

I just ran through the online Ikea mattress recommender.  It offered many helpful suggestions but did not recommend that I purchase the item that I’ve been sleeping on for the last month, the Solsta sofa bed.

That’s probably because the Solsta is not a bed.

Shortly after I arrived here, I had a brief email exchange with Angela, the owner of the boat.

Me:  “I do have some issues with the ‘bed’ though — either I don’t know how to operate it, or it is simply not a bed.”

She:  “My understanding is that Daniel’s been sleeping on this sofa bed for the last few months?”

So I went searching online for backup.  Ikea confirms that it is a ‘sofabed.’  I tried googling certain key phrases like “Solsta:  not a bed” and “Ikea Solsta incredibly uncomfortable” and “Ikea solsta permenantly injured houseguest” and “solsta sofa bed open back surgery”  These search phrases turned up nothing but the occasional product-review site at which happy consumers rate the Solsta as a good value and give it an average ranking of 5 out of 5 stars.

Curious, since it is marketed as a bed and yet is not a bed.  This puts me in an awkward spot.  If I could find anyone to back me up on this, I would’ve cheerfully bought an actual bed and deducted the price from my rent.  As it is, I’m left feeling like the only sane person in a world gone mad.

Here’s the Solsta in its latent, folded form:

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And here it is, unfolded:

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So, already you’re getting the idea that ‘unfolding’ really just involves piling the couch cushions on the floor next to the couch.   Not so bad — it worked when you were five, right?  Here are some close-ups of me standing on the middle and end sections of the bed, respectively:

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Notice how part of it gives when I step on it, and the other part doesn’t?  In case it’s not totally obvious, I will make you a diagram:

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Here, from the product instructions, is a diagram suggesting how I should sleep on this item:

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So, the first thought there is, Oh!  They’re using the back cushion to cover up the plywood!  But, no, the diagram is the other way around.  He’s sleeping like this:

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Here, the red arrows indicate the point of eventual calf-amputation.  Perhaps the man in the Ikea catalog already has two wooden legs, or is only 4′ tall with a deceptively long torso.  If he is a normal-sized 4-limbed Swede, then this drawing has captured him moments before he leaps out from under the covers and punches the product designer.

An alternative is to slide the cushion around and actually use it to mitigate the effects of the plywood.  That gives us two options:

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Here, the red arrow indicates the point of spinal failure.

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This is nearly tolerable except there’s some amount of foot-dangling involved, and the plywood provides low enough friction that over the course of an evening I find myself in the above mentioned spinal-failure situation.

So, after a couple of nights of such experimentation I finally ran into Daniel and asked him for advice.  His solution (which I’ve stuck with ever since) is this:

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I would NEVER have thought of this, but it turns out to be the only non-injurious option.  Sure, my feet go numb from the elevation and I end up curled in the fetal position by morning, but it does prevent permanent injury.

In case you think that I’m merely growing soft in my middle-age, I feel a need to mention that when in college I lived in an apartment that contained a similar piece of furniture — a foam loveseat that unfolded into a mattress.  It, however, was soft for the entire length.  And even then, at age 19, I refused to sleep on the thing.

What is going on at Ikea that they think this is a bed?  What is going on with the consuming public that they are buying (and, on craigslist, reselling) this item all the while thinking that it is a bed?  I have never encountered a product that fails so completely at being the thing that it was intended to be.  There should be firings, class-action lawsuits, product recalls.  But instead, there’s this, and this.  Thanks a lot, internet.

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Unrelated food photos

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I was excited at the prospect of assembly-line-style Peking duck for one.  It was really terrible, though.

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“Cereal Prawns”  As far as I can tell these are made much the same way as granola.  Lots of oats and lots of butter and some amount of pushing things around in a pan.  The peppery and prawny oats were really delicious but I’m still not quite down with crunching up shrimp in their shells.

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“Ice jelly with sea coconut.”  Tasty!  The ‘jelly’ was totally unsweetened, sort of like aspic.  I don’t know what the heck sea coconut is, unless it’s this which seems sort of unlikely.

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Boom Blox

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Never before have I seen architecture that was so obviously designed by a 4-year-old.

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Downstairs neighbors

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Crabby

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Many posts of repetitive macro photos coming up.

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