
Bathroom stall door at a LAN-gaming center

Side-by-side dueling cream-puff franchisees. There’s a third cream-puff outlet (‘Polar’) about 50 feet away.

Bathroom stall door at a LAN-gaming center

Side-by-side dueling cream-puff franchisees. There’s a third cream-puff outlet (‘Polar’) about 50 feet away.

Here’s a very shaky long pan of the Albert hawker center where I ate dinner tonight. It’s mostly blurry and useless but may give some idea of the weird enormity of the snack shacks I’ve been frequenting.
I was holding the phone at waist height, so there are some bonus tummy-close-ups of passersby.
Today has been a bit annoying.
My modest goal for the day was to get my clothes washed. This is always a challenge — usually I haul a giant laundry bag on the metro (attracting the ever watchful eye of bomb-wary passengers) down to Orchard Road to the ONE PLACE IN SINGAPORE that offers wash-dry-fold service with less than a 4-day turnaround. (Why am I in such a hurry? Because if I waited 4 days for my clothes I would have to own twice as many clothes. Why don’t I wash my clothes myself? Because there are no coin-laundries in Singapore. Doesn’t the yacht club offer laundry service? Yes it does, but not to me. Reasons unclear.)
So, anyway, I trucked down to the ONE PLACE IN SINGAPORE that does same day laundry. It’s called ‘Laundry Day’ and it’s a 45-minute trip, but the folks that run it are very friendly, and it’s next door to a nice noodle shop. They will be closed all week, it turns out. (Probably holiday-related… Saturday was Lunar New Year.) I sat down and did some googling, and located a vague internet rumor about a second laundry place (possible coin laundry!) a mile or so away, so I hiked up there hauling my increasingly-heavy bag. Alas, in keeping the spirit of constant renewal, the address is no longer there and has been replaced by a high-rise construction site. Optimistically I asked for directions from a passerby, and he pointed out that there was a sign advertising laundry service barely visible through the window of a shopping complex across the street, so I headed over there. In the shopping center there’s a nice shoe-repair shop with two little counters, one for cobbling and one for laundry. The cobbler (predictably) offered to have my laundry done in four days. Then he sent me on a wild-goose-chase to a different rumored laundry in the same shopping complex which I never found. (I would say that 50% of the stalls in the building were either maid-service employment agencies or overseas-remittance counters. So that’s how normal Singaporeans get their laundry done.)
I should mention here that Singapore will never let you sink too deeply into despair. I had a nice ice-cream sandwich (‘sandwich’ as in, ice cream on a slice of bread) somewhere during that last hike. And after my final despair I sat down at a mall food court* to have some papaya juice and within a few minutes a woman pushed a dim sum cart up next to me and provided an un-sought-for snack. And, admittedly, I probably passed about 80 foot-massage operations over the course of my day, so it’s my own fault for not taking it even easier than I did.
Anyway, now I’m back at the marina, and facing my last laundry option:

That’s been in my bathroom all along, but when I moved in I was advised against using it, for reasons that will become clear. These are desperate times, though.


The feed line is even more broken at the other end — it’s impossible to hook up without torrential leaks. Solved by dragging the washer into the shower stall and filling the tub with the shower head.

Home-spliced power plug. It came with the place!

When you live on a boat you don’t need a laundry tub, just a window.

Door propped shut with a table just in case things go horribly wrong.

OK, turns out that I can’t drain out the window because the washer doesn’t have a pump and only drains with gravity. By this time the washer is in the shower anyway — hope that none of the electronics are close to the ground!
So, that all worked pretty well. I even have these special clothespins that are made for clipping things to a railing. I’ve been using them for weeks to hang up my swimsuit and towel, but today they decided to be dramatic — a few minutes after hanging up my socks I heared some springy/snappy sounds and found that the clothespins had failed and broken and (in some cases) leaped overboard. So far my clothes have remained out of the drink though.


* This food court was on level B4 of a shopping center. That’s two stories below the subway line and a good 60 feet below sea level. Is that a normal city thing?
It’s hard to convey in a photo just how crowded the shipping lane over to my right is. Some of the time it really looks quite a bit like a freeway.
(Click the photo to expand.)
After pointing out and identifying a few of the ships on the horizon, my neighbor Fred describes the process of sailing over to Indonesia in his modestly-sized yacht. This brings to mind the image of a squirrel crossing the street during rush-hour.
The Newater visitor center includes a small-scale version of the vast treatment plant that I ride past every day. They use a three-stage process: micro-filtration, reverse-osmosis, and UV filtration.


Bundles of tiny, porous tubes which take up filtered water. Some unspecified percentage of the water left outside the tubes is ‘backwash’ and discarded into the ocean. This section of the tour is accompanied by a charming video which shows little animated protozoans bashing into the outsides of the tubes and turning away.

A few of the zillion r/o chambers which make up phase two

Another pleasing video and illustration scales the pores in the r/o membrane to the size of tennis balls, and presents water molecules as ping-pong balls. In the video, a bacterium is illustrated by a large-sized building whacking into an enormous tennis net.

Here, suddenly, I wonder who the target audience of this presentation is. Is ‘Estrogen Endocrine Disruptor’ really #3 on the worry list after ‘virus’ and ‘bacteria?’

Unsurprisingly, photos that I took of the Ultraviolet phase were hopelessly overexposed. In any case the tour guide conceded that there is no scientific basis for the UV phase (since we’ve already established that all microorganisms have been filtered out earlier in the process) and it’s just there as a safeguard and/or security blanket.
Most of the now-ultra-pure water is piped to semiconductor plants and other industries that need distilled or deionized water anyway. A tiny bit is pumped into the public reservoirs, but the long term plan is to pump increasingly more water back into the main water supply. I guess that’s so that right now they can tell people that there’s “only a little bit of pee” in the water and, a decade from now can say “hey, you’ve been drinking pee for years, what’s the big deal if it’s a little more?”
Of course, I’m used to drinking out of the Mississippi, so I have a hard time taking the gross-out potential of recycled water seriously.

The pure product doesn’t taste so great, though.

Nasi Lemak with rice that is tinted green for some reason.

“Soursop Tadpole,” an icy dessert.

Why do they call it ‘Tadpole’?
Let’s see if I can do a satellite embed…
That (if all is well with Google Maps) is an aerial view of the weird factory that I ride by every day on my way into town. It was originally described to me as a ‘desalination plant’ but it turns out to actually be a water recycling plant, called a ‘Newater Factory.’

Newater factory photographed out the window of the yacht club shuttle bus
Singapore has an elaborate rain-collection system, and per-capita water usage is quite low by international standards. Nonetheless, Singapore pipes in about 40% of its fresh water from neighboring Malaysia. The occasional political hiccup between Singapore and Malaysia coupled with the trauma of an island-wide water shortage back in the 60’s seems to put everyone on edge about this reliance on the pipeline. Oil they can buy from multiple sources; when it comes to water they’re in a vulnerable position.
Fortunately, the civil engineers here have no sense of proportion. They’ve built a desalination plant on the west coast which provides almost 10% of the water supply. And in the last 10 years they’ve scattered treatment plants here and there such that now essentially all of the islands waste-water is reprocessed and reused. In an attempt to stifle the outcry that stemmed from the prospect of recycling sewage into drinking water, there’s a beautiful PR center which exists to demonstrate and promote the use of the recycled water.



The first section of the center had lots of videos and kid-friendly interactive exhibits.

I arrived at the same time as a bus full of Thai tourists. After a few minutes the Newater tourguide sidled up to me and asked “So… you’re with them, then?”
Government officials drink recycled pee without dropping dead.

Will the tourists want to stand directly above a multicolor recycled-water fountain and take thousands of posed photos? Yes they will.
Part two of the tour included an actual working water-processing plant. More to come.
The committee said there is also a need for an underground master plan.
It said the government should catalyse the development of underground space over the next decade.
The committee also emphasized a need to develop subterranean land rights, a valuation framework and to establish a national geology office.
The other yacht owners at the marina are always worried about ‘fouling’ — the water here is warm and fertile and thick growths of kelp appear on every submerged surface. A few days ago my next-door neighbor Fred was in flippers and a mask scraping the underside of his boat to reduce drag.
Since the Clamn has neither ability nor inclination for travel, I’m exempt from worrying about such things; the underside of my bedroom is very green. And, there’s a lot of activity down there!

kelp still-life

Annelid of some sort — very wiggle and creepy!


Two views of the same 1/2″ crustacean — probably a ‘slipper lobster’.

Whelk (?) top view

Whelk from beneath