Brandish

A note from my extremely kind next-door-neighbor regarding the car I rented over the holidays:

Hi,

    I don’t know if the police left you a card or case number re: vehicle damage.  My wife and I were just coming in from dog walking.  An SUV MN license place <redacted> backed into your car (about 7:30 pm Tues.).  The guy driving hesitated for a moment then started to drive away.  He definitely knew he had hit your car.  When he saw me looking at his plate # he made a little intimidating move — driving toward me.  Stupid.  I called 911, the police came out and talked to us (both of us witnessed it happen), I assume they filed a report.
    Let us know if you need anything from us.

Lee

So, granted, I have worse luck with cars than most.  One Christmas I burned out the clutch on a borrowed car two minutes after picking it up, and another time a car’s headlight leapt out of its socket rather than be associated with me.  And when I did own a car full-time it was run into (while parked) on a nearly weekly basis.

But, come on!  This guy didn’t just hit-and-run my Mazda 3; he threatened to run over my neighbor.  This perfectly sums up my feeling about driving.  It’s interesting, sometimes exhilarating, sometimes necessary.  Pretty much like shooting a rifle.  Any random commuter is just as armed and dangerous as a yokel packing heat; the cyclists and pedestrians of the world live in fear of setting them off.  I’m sure that when I drive I am just as dangerous, and just as much of a powder-keg, which is why I like to spend a minimum of time behind the wheel.

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When you have to go…

I just saw this in a theater before a kung fu movie, and it was oddly inspiring. Apparently public health advances really get my blood pumping.

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Dum Biryani

Oddly I’ve been getting requests for more food photos.  Mostly I’ve been eating unphotogenic things, and this is no exception.

biryani pot

In the US, restaurant biryani is usually like fried rice: pre cooked rice reheated with oil and spices.   In Dum Biryani the rice is cooked with the seasonings in one big batch.  Shops make a day’s worth and when it’s gone it’s gone.

My old favorite is still chugging along in Tekka center, but it seems to’ve fallen out of favor.  Most of the hungry mob was around the corner at a different stall.

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Tekka center

The main draw of my current apartment in Singapore is that it is ‘across the river’ from Tekka Centre, a housing complex which contains one of my favorite hawker centers.  Here’s the neighborhood view on Google maps:

tekkagoogle

The apartment overlooks the parking lot on the lower left, and that blue building (with the pin) in the top right is Tekka Centre.

Now I’m here, on the 10th floor so I have a nice view of Tekka:

View out the window of 33 Mackenzie, 10th floor

Notice anything different?  The Rochor river is gone — demolished or covered or redirected to make room for subway construction.  Gives the neighborhood a pretty different feel from the last time I was here.

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image

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Siesta key

I’m spending a week or so on Siesta Key, Florida with Mary and Jared and kids.  Mostly I’m lurking in the condo working while they putter around on the adjacent beach.  I’m also reading Killing Mister Watson which is set in the 10,000 Islands a bit south of here.  It’s very strange to look at this heavily suburbanized landscape and think about what a soggy, malaria-infested horror show this place must’ve been 100 or so years ago.

A lot of the characters in the book are ‘plume hunters’ and there’s a fair bit of talk about the giant shorebird rookeries that used to fill South Florida.  I’m still pretty impressed by the bird life (I’ve seen half a dozen ospreys, for example) but I’m sure I’m only seeing a faint shadow of the original state.

On a Saturday we took a tiny “ferry” (actually a fishing charter on a side job) to egmont key which had a bunch of abandoned, unused batteries from the Spanish-American war.  It was also full of gopher tortoises, something I’d never heard of or thought about.  Instead of stubby tortoise feet they had nasty-looking claws, presumably for burrowing.

gopher tortoise1 gopher tortoise2

The tortoises were extremely bold; one walked right up to us to graze under the bench we were seated on.

We also picked this huge two-lined walking stick off the side of an old army barracks.  After a double-take (and repeated leg-counting) it was determined that this was in fact /two/ walking sticks.  Further research suggests that once a pair meet up they just hang together like this until one or the other dies.

walking stickwalking stick pair

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Hong Kong miscellany

While I’m stuck at the airport waiting for a delayed flight, some more miscellaneous Hong Kong photos.

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Mai Po

A few weeks ago, Brooke signed us up for a ‘Mangrove Walk’ at Mai Po nature reserve through the WWF.  It was only the night before that we figured out the scope of what we were in for… a four hour tour over the China/Hong Kong border through an that required multiple sets of permits.  Great to have a tour guide, otherwise we never would have seen any of this stuff.

Me in front of the Mai Po entry

Me in front of the Mai Po entry


The first bit of the walk was alongside some working fish farms.  The guide explained that a lot of this wetland was landscaped and carved into farms by refugees in the 40’s.  Much later it was set aside as a wetland preserve (mostly as spoonbill habitat) but the farming is allowed to continue as long as the farmers don’t alter the landscape or change their farming practices.  There were lots of shorebirds (mostly egrets and herons) patrolling the edges of the fishponds — the guide had a telescope on a tripod and he kept setting up perfectly-framed views of various birds for us to peer at.

Of course my camera skills aren’t good enough for bird photos.

Hungry mullet gathered around a feeder

Hungry mullet gathered around a feeder

After the fishponds there was some less-intensively managed wetland, used to cultivate tiger prawns but mostly managed by the preserve for shorebirds.  All along the shoreline were these weird pink blobs.

Apple snail eggs

Apple snail eggs

Apple snails were introduced into Hong Kong as a food species but turned out to be both a) not very delicious and b) full of parasites.  So, useless as a food crop, they’ve invaded all the wetlands in the area.  They lay their eggs above the waterline, giving this pink styrofoam look to everything.  Sometimes the WWF people go on snail patrol and try to thin out the population in an area… seems like a hopeless task.

Snail hazmat bucket

Snail hazmat bucket

After the shrimp and bird ponds were a couple of great-looking lily ponds, followed by a nice shady patch of mangrove.

Slightly snail-chewed but still pretty.

Slightly snail-chewed but still pretty.

 

Mangroves

Mangroves

Female wood spider living in the mangroves.  Bigger than the palm of my hand, with a web big enough to catch small birds

Female wood spider living in the mangroves. Bigger than the palm of my hand, with a web big enough to catch small birds

After that patch of mangroves things got weirder.  First there was this scary border fence:

Hong Kong border fence

Hong Kong border fence

And then a very wobbly walk along this floating, very narrow pontoon boardwalk:

Floating boardwalk

Floating boardwalk

The boardwalk ended in what looked like a fence, but was actually the side of a bird-watching blind.  The blind was dark and stifling.  But, the view…

Bird blind, inside view

Bird blind, inside view

Bird blind, outside view

Bird blind, outside view.  Click to enlarge!

In that last photo you can see little lumps on the mudflat in the foreground.  That’s hundreds of mudskippers rushing around, flashing their fins and doing their clumsy, leaping territorial dance.  Among the mudskippers are thousands of little fiddler crabs.  And, off in the distance, that’s Shenzhen.  There weren’t a ton of birds, but I didn’t mind.

Nervous fiddler crab

Nervous fiddler crab

Tree frog eggs.  When the eggs hatch the tadpoles drop into the water, same as the baby apple snails.

Tree frog eggs. When the eggs hatch the tadpoles drop into the water, same as the baby apple snails.

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Hong Kong Park botanical gardens

These photos are notable because…

The ‘greenhouse’ at the botanical gardens is just open to the air since this is already the tropics:

hongkongbotanical2

 

Whereas the orchid house is heavily air conditioned and shaded because it is way too hot and humid here for orchids!

hongkongbotanical1

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Temple Street night market

Kowloon night market

We sat in Mido tea shop for a long time playing cards, watching people set up the night market out the window.  I set up my camera to take time-lapse photos of the setup but after a while a waiter complained that I was going to break the window with my camera.  I’m not sure what he meant.

mido1

mido2

 

Anyway, I missed the good bit when the lights switched on, but the clip turned out OK.

kowloon_market_setup

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